The Truth About Hair Masks, Bond Builders & Treatments

The Truth About Hair Masks, Bond Builders & Treatments

What your hair actually needs (and what it doesn’t)

If you’ve ever stood in the haircare aisle or scrolled TikTok wondering “Do I need a mask? A bond builder? A treatment? All of the above?” — you’re not alone.

The truth is: not every treatment is meant for every head of hair, and using the wrong one (or too much of a good thing) can actually make your hair feel worse.

Let’s break it down in a simple, real-world way — the same way I explain it to my clients in the chair.

Hair Masks: Moisture vs. Hydration (Yes, There’s a Difference)

Most people use the word “mask” as a catch-all, but there are two main types, and they do very different things.

Moisture Masks (My #1 Recommendation for Most Clients)

Moisture masks work on the outside of the hair strand. Think of them as nourishment and softness support.

Who they’re great for:

  • Color-treated hair

  • Non-color-treated hair that feels dry

  • Split ends and dullness

  • Anyone who just wants their hair to feel better

Moisture masks help smooth the cuticle, add slip, and improve shine. They’re especially helpful if your hair feels rough, tangled, or lifeless.

👉 This is what most people actually need, even if they think their hair is “damaged.”

Hydrating Masks (Deeper Penetration)

Hydrating masks penetrate deeper into the hair and help restore internal moisture levels.

Who they’re best for:

  • Curly or textured hair

  • Very dry or dehydrated hair

  • Hair exposed to lots of heat or sun

  • Both color-treated and natural hair

Curly hair, in particular, needs more moisture than average hair, so hydrating masks can be a game changer.

Will a Mask Weigh My Hair Down?

It can — but technique matters.

Here’s how I recommend using a mask if you still want volume:

  1. Shampoo twice (always).

  2. After the second shampoo, squeeze excess water out with your hands.

  3. Apply the mask from mid-lengths to ends only.

  4. Leave on for 5–10 minutes (or per instructions).

  5. Rinse thoroughly.

If you don’t care about volume and just want maximum softness, you can apply it all over — but most clients don’t need it on the scalp.

Bond Builders & Repair Treatments (Use With Intention)

Bond builders are a different category entirely. These include products like K18 and Olaplex.

These are intense repair treatments designed to reconnect broken bonds inside the hair.

I recommend them for:

  • Over-processed blonde hair

  • Hair that has experienced breakage

  • Color corrections

  • “Traumatic” hair situations (we’ve all been there)

⚠️ Important: More is NOT better.

Bond builders are not meant to be used every wash. For most people:

  • Once every 2 weeks is plenty

  • Extremely damaged hair may need short-term use — but still not every wash

Overusing bond builders can leave hair feeling stiff, dry, or brittle.

Shine Treatments: Underrated but Amazing

Shine treatments are fantastic for improving:

  • Gloss

  • Smoothness

  • Overall appearance of healthy hair

They don’t repair damage, but they make hair look healthier and more polished — which is often exactly what clients want.

These are great maintenance treatments between major color services.

Keratin Treatments: Use Lightly

Keratin treatments get a bad reputation, but when used correctly, they can be very helpful.

Good to know:

  • Safe for color-treated hair

  • Not as intense as bond builders

  • Help smooth, soften, and reduce frizz

I usually recommend using keratin treatments once a month, or at most every two weeks. You don’t need them constantly.

My Go-To Masks I Actually Recommend

I’m very picky about what I suggest to clients. A few solid options that work for most hair types:

  • Kevin Murphy Young.Again Masque
    Amazing for moisture, softness, and shine — one of my most-used in the salon.

  • Amika Treatments
    Great across the board, especially for dry or color-treated hair.

  • Redken All Soft Heavy Cream
    A true “everyone” mask — reliable, nourishing, and not overwhelming.

The Bottom Line

Not all treatments are created equal — and your hair doesn’t need everything.

  • Most people need moisture

  • Some people need hydration

  • Very few need constant bond repair

If your hair feels dull, dry, or lifeless, start simple. Nourish first. Repair only when necessary.

And if you’re ever unsure? That’s what your stylist is for 💛